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The application process for Pure Tung oil is the same as for other natural oils which do not have driers added. If you are asking a professional floor finisher to do this work for you it is important that they read these notes and don't treat Pure Tung Oil in the same way they may normally treat commercially formulated Tung Oil Finishes which have driers and which allow the work to be done very quickly over a couple of days. These so called Tung Oils usually contain urethanes which means you are likely to be getting a Poly Urethane 'Light' finish.

An application process for Pure Tung will take more time than is typically allowed for by commercial floor finishers accustomed to working with skin and so called tung oil finishes which cure very quickly due to their dryer content.

It is strongly recommended that Pure Tung is tested on an off-cut or equivalent piece of the wood that the finish is intended for. This proving process will determine thinning ratios and your technique and will help to be sure that your expectations are in line with what can be achieved. This advice is especially relevant to oiled finishes which, by their nature, can absorb oil deep into the wood and which are therefore unlike skin finishes which can often be more easily removed with strippers or sanding if you change your mind or are unhappy with the outcome.

The additional reassurance here is that Pure Tung is in fact used in cabinetry to enhance the figure of pieces which are later finished with other products when the oil has fully oxidised. This means that in these cases tung is acting as a sealer over which other finishes can be applied.

In the same way for any wood finish, the colour of the wood can be altered prior to applying the oil by the use of over-the-counter wood stains or dyes which can be used to colour the base wood. Alternatively we offer a range of powdered aniline solvent dyes which allow Pure Tung and terpene thinned mixes to be coloured. These dyes are very powerful. It is most important that mix ratios be carefully tested and documented so that successfull outcomes can be repeated.

Fill nail holes and dings if desired with an appropriate wood filler and allow to set up.
Sand as finely and evenly as possible. For cabinet and smaller surfaces sand to 600 grit if possible. For floors this is not feasible but sand to the finest grit attainable. Tung should preferably not be applied over other finishes. On work which is already finely sanded but has been left untreated for some time untreated consider using a wax and grime remover to remove skin oils, tobacco smoke stains etc. A product widely marketed as sugar soap is recommended to clean most readily removable contaminants.
Vacuum the sanding dust.

Tung oil can be used neat but will be much more difficult to rub dry to a thin enough film. Customers with an intolerance to the fumes of any class of thinner can examine using tung neat.

Generously apply a 50:50 mix of thinner and tung oil using a paint roller, wool applicator pad, sponge, brush or cotton rag. Keep the area well wetted with the oil for about 30 minutes. Some areas with differential absorbency may soak up all the mix and will need re-wetting.
After this time vigorously wipe off all remaining surface oil with a cotton rag or similar. This in counter-intuitive (and expensive) but essential to achieving a good outcome. Tung oil needs to be cured in thin coats. Failure to carefully do this is the most common reason for problems.

Next day repeat with another coat using the same technique. After a few more days repeat coats as you wish. The golden rule of oil finishing is more and thinner coats is better than fewer and thicker.

Ideally wait a week during which time the oil will harden. During any stage of the drying process you can walk on a floor in socks or bare feet. Be ready to wipe away any oil which may bleed from the surface. For external wood treatments choose a period with a few days of dry weather in prospect.

The oil curing process is a slightly exothermic reaction. Do not leave oily rags balled up as there is a slight risk of spontaneous combustion.

Some floor finishing trade customers we supply who, for reasons both of their own health, the results attainable and their customers preference for a natural product, report stunning results using a floor polisher after a couple of weeks. They prefer to use old woolen carpet on their polishing/buffing machines with the pile side against the floor. Wool carpet is much preferred. Given the oil reaches close to ultimate hardness in about 3 to 4 weeks buffing is best carried out well after the application.

Buffing cabinetry or smaller pieces can be done with power drill mounted buffing mops.